Additional Craft Information:
Select a point on the stem of a healthy shoot about 45cm (r Sin) from the tip and remove a couple of leaves to expose the stem. White, sticky sap will drip out, so protect the carpet first. If there is no support, push a plant cane in and secure the stem to it. Cut along the bottom seam of a polythene bag to make it into a sleeve and, bunching the leaves together, slide it over the tip until it surrounds the area where the cut will be made. Using gardening string, bunch the bottom of the bag tightly around the stem below the position of the cut, then bind the string to hold it and tie tightly.
Using a sharp knife, make an upward cut from about r cm VA in) below a leaf or leaf scar, ending just under it. The cut should penetrate about halfway through the stem. This is the tricky point, where the top seems to want to fall away, so make sure that it is well secured to its support. Wedge the cut open with a piece of matchstick or sphagnum moss, then bring the bag up around the cut and fill it with moist cuttings compost. Pull the top of the bag in above the cut and secure tightly with string.
DIY Craft Essential #1: Washi tape
DIY Craft Essential #2: Needle nose pliers
The technical part is now finished, but it will take about eight weeks for roots to grow and it may be necessary to loosen the top of the bag and add water periodically. When roots are visible through the bag, cut below the roots to remove the whole shoot tip. Take the bag off carefully to reveal the new roots and pot them up. Air-layering can be tried with a variety of plants, including Schefflera and Draceana.Keeping house plants healthy is one thing, but persuading them to flower again can be a challenge. In some ways it's a miracle that plants like stephanotis and orchids will bloom in our houses at all, when the environment must be so different from that of their natural habitat. Apart from annual plants, such as cineraria and calceolaria, most plants sold in flower are capable of repeating their performance, as long as they are well cared for and provided with the right conditions.
DIY Craft Essential #3: X-acto knife
DIY Craft Essential #4: Spray paint
My clivia was beautiful when I bought it, but has not flowered for the last three years.
Clivia miniata produces bunches of (usually) orange flowers, mainly in spring, but sometimes during summer. Even when not in bloom, its strappy evergreen leaves are attractive. These plants originate from South African woodlands and dislike full sunlight, which scorches their leaves and turns them yellow. However, they do need to receive good light, with some gently direct light in order to flower. My plants thrive in many positions: some have done well in east-facing rooms with gentle morning light; several benefit from a north-facing position, but close to the windows; and yet more are sited in south-facing rooms, but some distance from the windows.
hroughout spring and summer clivias benefit from plenty of water, reapplied when the surface of the compost has dried out, and with liquid fertilizer added every two weeks. However, during late autumn and winter they can be rested by allowing them to dry out a lot more, though never becoming bone-dry and stressed. By early spring pale buds appear between the leaves of mature crowns of growth and this is the signal to give the plants a good soaking, to step up the watering to normal and begin liquid feeding again. Allow plants to produce offsets, pot on during summer to give them room to mature, and your reward will be large potfuls, with five or more sets of flowers.